Friday, December 17, 2010

Last tango in Tangier

Well, my frugality mission failed. I realized mid-afternoon that I was not going to make it without water (and even I have decided to pass on the tap water), so I had to spend 6 of my 8Dhr on a bottle that would last me through tonight. Then I remembered that I had really wanted to eat some fish while here, given we are right on the Med. So I splurged: I had two 2-Euro coins that I exchanged for a whopping 40Dhr. During my meanderings through the Medina I had seen a really scary looking place (not exactly tourist material) that had a couple of large metal bowls filled with various types of fried fish (but Mediterranean style - no batter, just lightly flowered). So I found my way back with cash in hand and walked in. I think they were surprised to have a non-Moroccan client and appreciated my bumbling efforts to explain what I wanted in Arabic. Luckily they spoke some Spanish.

I got a substantial serving of a couple different types of fried fish (sardines and probably anchovies, but all fresh, not the canned or salted kind), a big piece of bread and a smaller bowl with a tomato-based sauce (looked like salsa but not really spicy) and a bottle of Fanta. The fish was actually cold as it was sitting in the metal bowls on the counter for a while, but this seemed to be the norm, so I dug in... literally, because there is no silverware and I just used my hands. Specifically, my right hand so as not to upset the locals. Total cost: 25Dhr. Quality of food: very high.

After the fish dinner I got a couple of tangerines and then some of the delicious honey pastries I had discovered back in Fez. Yum. I decided at the last minute to really splurge, and I charged just under $15 to my credit card to buy a kilo of mixed pastries to take to my aunt's house on Sunday when I get there.

One more thing: in the afternoon I visited the "American Legation," essentially a museum that used to be the original Ambassadorial Residence (see earlier post). Amazing! I took pictures of an original letter by George Washington dated 12/1/1789 (I had been told no photos inside except for the garden area, but I could not resist and snuck a few). The building itself was beautiful, and the materials inside truly amazing.

So, this is it. Last post from Morocco. Tomorrow I take a ferry from Tangier to Tarifa, then a 25-min shuttle bus to Algeciras. From there a bus to Marbella, and then I should be able to spend a couple of hours in Marbella before boarding another bus to the Malaga airport, whence I take off for Milano at 7:30pm.

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